Grim faces around the tarmac, going about the task of ferrying relief goods to the devastated areas. And in their midst suddenly emerged a bright and cheerful woman. With thick black hair flowing in the breeze, a smartly tailored jacket over an open-collar white shirt, an elegant scarf draped across her shoulders the young woman exuded that special charm, vitality and optimism of twenty first century youth. She could have been from anywhere in the West, so cosmopolitan was her bearing. But no. She was an Arab. Not only an Arab, but the daughter of a Persian Gulf ruler, one amongst several who have opened up their countries to total liberalism for foreign men and women, only to firmly keep their own wives, daughters and sisters in virtual bondage. This was the Shaikha Mayassa, daughter of Hamad al Thani, ruler of Qatar bringing relief goods to Pakistan. Shaikh Hamad has thrown open the doors of his tiny principality to the world, making it the hottest place for investment and leisure in the Middle East, poised to overtake thriving Dubai and Bahrain.

It was not always so. After its independence from the British in the 1970's,Qatar remained a quiet backwater of the Gulf. It has immense wealth including, at 14 trillion cft 5% of the worlds gas reserves and over 16 billion barrels of oil. For a quarter century after Independence Qatar was ruled by the hermit Shaikh Khalifa, who squandered his nation's wealth while keeping his people shackled under extremist Wahabism borrowed from neighboring Saudi Arabia. Qataris were denied the benefits of their extraordinary wealth.Women continued to be the worst sufferers. Every freedom so generously granted them by the liberal religion of Islam was ruthlessly denied by guardian mullahs, whose warped concept of treating women as mere chattels has brought everlasting shame upon the entire Muslim world.

As so often in Muslim history, the day inevitably dawned when the frustrated Crown Prince decided enough was enough. In a peaceful coup he removed his father and took over as ruler, much to the delight of his weary people. That was almost ten years back. His eccentric father had also picked quarrels over boundary issues with both his neighbors Bahrain and Saudi Arabia. So the young ruler spent much of the first five years mending fences and successfully resolved these disputes. Simultaneously he started the far more difficult task of lifting his backward people into the 21st Century on a fast track. He successfully introduced all the classic measures for opening trade, investment and development, simplifying rules and procedures.

In the new millenium the world does not look favorably at closed and stifling societies. Hamdan realized the vital significance of a softer image if he were to succeed in modernizing his country. In this he was fortunate to have the unparalleled support of his wife. She placed herself at the forefront of women's emancipation in the Gulf, actively championing women's issues, something that caused deep concern to the Saudis. Stories appeared in the British press casting aspersions on her character. The Shaikha was not deterred. She sued the Saudis in England.

British Courts found the Saudis guilty, clearly faulting Saudi intelligence for defaming her, ordering the shut down of their front companies in the UK and awarding the Shaikha a huge compensation. No wonder she is a star in the liberal Muslim world today, though
not much loved by humbled Saudi extremists.

The young Princess who brought a planeload of relief goods to Pakistan is cast in the same mould as her enlightened mother, courageously assissting her father in bringing Qatari women into the mainstream of society. Other changes are equally dramatic. Central Command, headquartered in Saudi Arabia for long, has shifted its base to Qatar, along with its support troops. Companies from across the world are scrambling to open offices in boomtown Doha, where rents are soaring. A brand new airport is under construction, the largest in the Gulf. A gleaming new airline has taken to the skies, aspiring to become one of the best.

Much to the chagrin and utter horror of George Bush, the incredible new Crown jewel of the Gulf, Al-Jazeera Television, has revolutionized news coverage. Americans have done
everything to discredit it, even claiming that it is a mouthpiece of Usama bin Ladin. Instead, Al-Jazeera is winning accolades for its courageous and fair coverage, enhancing its credibility by hiring distinguished broadcasters like Sir David Frost. Al-Jazeera's offices have come under attack by Allied troops. Yet it continues to successfully discredit the highly biased "embedded" journalists.

So here is a State that has seen a complete turn-around in just the last 5 or 6 years, the same amount of time Nawaz Sharif has spent in exile. In practical terms the Qatari leadership is demonstrating its grasp of what enlightened moderation is all about. Qatar, which was in the Dark Ages when pre-Ziaulhaq Pakistan was a tolerant and moderate society, is now surging ahead, not only in to an era of prosperity for its people but also restoring women their rights.

Pakistan, meanwhile, continues to be governed by draconian Hadood and Blasphemy laws, claiming for years its commitment to that much-trumpeted slogan of "enlightened moderation". Gone are the days when the President appeared cradling two puppies in his arms. Leave alone reality, even the illusion has disappeared. The nation seeks only a return to the tolerant Pakistan of the past, where women could walk about freely without fear, where sectarianism was unheard of, where churches and temples were revered by Muslims, where the corrupt were looked down upon, not eulogized, where excellence was treasured and giants emerged in the arts and sciences winning international acclaim, including Faiz Ahmad Faiz with a Lenin Prize and Professor Salam a Noble Prize.

To restore tolerance in Pakistani society we have to stop repeating hollow slogans and start taking bold actions. Overcome our fear of the clerics. Withdraw Hadood and Blasphemy Laws. Abolish Jergas. Exploitation of women and children.

Perhaps the young Princess from Qatar brought us not only relief goods to aid the needy, and a cheerful smile to uplift broken hearts, but also a poignant message: that emancipation is not out of our reach. It only needs the will.